There are many strokes from warm up, such as the scoop stroke which is circular and always upwards, which gives a light brushing impact to which then can be followed by pats or taps.

The hit and hold, which allows the impact of the cane, to keep the sensation burning a bit longer, the hit and lift which does not keep the sensation burning but radiates from the impact, the hit and side to which will feel like a burn and tear/rip. The hit and slide stroke if done with a textured can amplifies the feeling of a skin tear/rip without tearing skin or breaking it.

In more advanced caning when using two or more canes at the same impact moment, would be clap and drum strokes, partial and tipping.

Partial strokes is a stroke using approximately 3-5 inches of the tip of the cane or rod, to impact between the shoulder blades on a skinny individual, to whom has no meat or muscle to take a full cane stroke on the back. Partial stroke is also used for caning the feet, hands or in between the thighs or on the female's labia, entrance to the vagina and anus of men and women. [Note: if using a cane on genital areas such as vagina and anus, if a natural cane either wrap the cane in Saran wrap/cling wrap or lay cling or Saran wrap and tape to the individual's body. Rubber or other material that can withstand a dishwasher or sterilizing machine can be used without protection]

Tipping has been demonstrated more often wrong, as a partial stroke rather then the proper tipping stroke of using the very end of the cane, to tap the nipple or pubic area to cause involuntary orgasms by using the acupressure points. Other than tipping the nipples and pubic area tipping can be slightly more intense then a light tap when applied to the buttocks cheeks, but never on the back or thighs.

In using the cane and rod, the foundation strokes are always on the same principle as the flogger and whip, in which no down strokes, such as north to south strokes, are used on breasts, penis, testicles, buttocks and/or thighs. Cane and rods are not to be used below the knee joints or on the arms, on any joint or spine or bone, no where on the face, neck, upper shoulders, belly unless extremely light and with a submissives belly inflated with air and ready to be impact, not when the dominant is ready to impact.

In caning the thighs, the proper male position is to have legs open as to allow his genitals to sink between the thighs, as to prevent accidental and non consensual impact. Females can be closed or open as long as the cane's length can impact squarely and evenly at the same time. Short canes, also known as "governess canes" force the female submissive to be caned legs closed. "School master's canes," which are approximately 4 feet allow greater freedom of positions.

In caning the breasts, female breasts regardless of size, should be impacted with upward strokes, again same with whips, as not to detach them from the muscle. Breasts can be struck evenly on but never any movement down. This applies to men who have breasts as well, such as overweighed men. Strokes applied should not be heavy and should be light, adding layers to create discomfort and then later into pain. In a rhythmic tap of the broad side of the cane on both nipples as they hang down can be similar in effect to tipping the nipples in a standing/sitting position, in doing this -- often women will get orgasms. Most will have tiny ones but, nonetheless it is all external without any masturbation of the clit. Men will precum if relaxed by using the nipples with the tipping stroke or a rhythmic use of the broad side of the cane.

As with the flogger tails, the thicker the cane's diameter the more thud it produces. It will not vibrate as much as a thinner cane. The thinner the diameter, the more bite or sting it will produce. So, it is recommended to use the thick diameter cane or rod for warm up a sensual work, and decrease the diameter as the play continues. Once the scene is near conclusion, to prevent dropping the submissive out of subspace or flying, to go slowly back to the thick diameter. In short, reverse what you used.

There are many materials to choose canes and rods from. The rattan cane being the easiest to maintain and keep, the rattan is coated in water based polyurethane or raw linseed oil. If raw, or unfinished, keeping it moist without rotting it keeps it supple.

Bamboo, can never be kept moist by oils or finishes. They require being soaked in salt water. Epson salt is not the same but, if in a dire need, can be used but, natural salt water is best.

Birch and Yew are wonderful traditional canes found in Europe along with bamboo. Fruit trees and not citrus tree woods can also harvest good canes once, stripped and debarked, then sanded smooth.

Aluminum arrow shafts, carbon arrow shafts (if a light player), plastic curtain rods and other materials are also wonderful. If a crop looses it's cracker or thong, tape the end and the texture of the skin over the bone of the crop can be used as a cane.

In selecting a rattan or tree/bush wood cane, the bend which is also called "the knee" of the cane is not any problem to the strength of the cane. It is the twist. The twist is like an old fashioned Coke - Cola bottle, or wringing a rag, this is a flaw and weakness that may shatter the cane if it is within the middle of the cane. Usually people selling canes will dedicate a twisted portion of the cane to a handle.

Proper storing of canes and natural rods are by hanging them and not laying down or on their tips.

Tips of the cane play a major role in the harshness of the "tipping stroke." Most canes are rounded at the tip, which is the mildest and most often used for tipping the breasts and pubic area. The beveled or squared off tip is harshest and is more painful and if the submissive's nipples have been desensitized from lots of nipple torture, the square end may be necessary to get the involuntary orgasms by the tipping stroke.

The dominant in the art of caning or using the rod, will be familiar with the cane's natural motion. In selecting a cane, shaking it north to south is not a true measure of a cane's quality but, in sending it west to east or east to west, will show the amount of oval it takes at a distance. To "whip" the cane can only show it's flexibility. To "whip" the cane is when an individual snaps the cane or whip sharply to make noise or sharp impact.

Other than thick canes and rods, will the path be straight and without oval caused by energy meeting object and flow around the cane shaft/aerodynamics. Like trees, thinner canes will bend as not to shatter.

To check a rod or cane for roughness, taking an old nylon stocking and dragging it along will find burrs that need to be filed down. Usually a fingernail file with fine grit will do the best job and least damage to the finish of the cane/rod.

It is not often taught how significant the grip of a cane is as well as the position of the submissive. I can only assume it is due to the lack of formal ways being passed down.

A major fault in caning on the dominant's role, is the hand grip of the cane. This is especially true with rattan and bamboo which are light and have vibration. The idea of caning is to send the vibration into the submissive and not travel into the arm or body of the dominant.

The best grip is to lightly hold the cane in the strong hand, just light enough as to not let it drop or slip but, not so tight as to squeeze it. Perhaps picturing pinching the index finger and thumb with the cane in between. The other fingers are to be loose and by closing the fingers as squeezing a spray bottle to spray, is the best analogy to describe formal caning's hand grip.

Another way to sabotage the cane's effect is by keeping the hand closed tight or to use the index finger to point onto the cane. This actually mutes the cane.

Only the wrist is employed in caning the actual strokes, the style is just a delivery of energy and in different ways.

The biggest fault on the submissive side to caning is the position. Again, the training just doesn't seem to be passed down as to elements of caning which are very important.

The dominants need to understand that their submissive's body is a body which echoes and vibrates. The idea of using the cane is to impact, let the vibration echo and travel, radiate and disperse in the body. Bondage furniture and slave position is what creates mute or amplified sensations or to be sabotaged or pure.

Having a submissive stand, when impacted by cane onto the buttocks, will only have sensation travel straight through the hip but little or no travel up into the spine or legs.

If a submissive stands against the bondage frame, for example a St. Andrew's cross, the furniture actually mutes the cane and the impact's sensation will only travel to the spine and not through the hip.

The spanking horse, believe it or not, does not yield good sensations either. Being that it is not always built on the true table like horizontal, it elevates the shoulders and chests, which causes the sensation of the impact to stop around the rib cage and no further.

The ideal positions a submissive can take as not to sabotage the effects of the cane, the stroke or style, is to be without restraint and take a position of standing, then bending over placing their hands on a table or chair (not the back of a chair as it isn't stable enough), parting their legs slightly, as to open their genitals to act as a vibration chamber or like a open mouth, to level out their back as to be so level as to be able to have a tray sit upon their back without day light showing. This is the maximum effect position.

Other ideal positions are, to stand, bend over and grab the ankles with legs slightly apart. The skin on the buttocks is drawn tight and impact will be felt into the hip and radiate but, not as dramatically as the English position as above.

Kneeling puts a dominant in an awkward position but, it is possible to properly cane the back and buttocks.

The whip position, or kneeling then placing the head onto the floor and arms along side or under the head, then raising the buttocks is also good for caning the buttocks.

In caning the thighs, the ideal way is to have a submissive support themselves on their elbows on a solid furniture piece, such as a table, bar or box, then squat half way. This rounds the thigh muscles and tenses them up enough to create a hump. This hump is the proper area to cane frontal thighs.

Caning the back/shoulders. This really depends on the submissive's body type. If a submissive is muscled or has fat to pad the area, this will give the opportunity to cane the back fully. The submissive should draw their shoulders back, their chest will lift but, the muscles will be more defined. Don't have the submissive hollow their back as to expose joints or shoulder blades to the cane. An analogy would be to have them at attention.

If the submissive is skinny or fragile, without meat or muscle, use the partial stroke to cane between the spine and shoulder blades.

The dominant's ideal position in caning is standing with legs slightly parted, at the hip of the submissive as to land the broad side of the cane evenly and impact to both cheeks more evenly.
Canes will wrap, or flex on the off side. This is why caning from both sides of the submissive's hips evens out the damage and keeps impacts symmetrical. To stand too far forward will cause the cane to impact near the dominant harder and barely touch the off side. To stand to far back, will cause only the tip of the cane to hit the off side and not close to the dominant.

For those with disabilities, the submissive with disabilities can be placed on a bar stool, allowed to rest on a solid table their upper body, then have the buttocks slightly over hang the edge of the seat of the bar stool, and you have a perfect target.

The best styles for dominants with disabilities to adopt are the American and German style of caning.

Reprinted with permission, courtesy Lady Hugs
Copyrighted and Registered with the US Library of Congress # TXu 828-635 under Lady Hugs
Not to be reprinted in any format without written permission of the author.